Updating kitchen range hoods
The size of the cooking surface, the amount of heat produced by the cooking surface, and the volume of the kitchen.
If the hood is over an island, you'll use 150 cfm/linear foot.How do I size hood CFM appropriately for both the amount of gas that will be combusted, and the amount/scale of my cooking?I don't want absurd overkill, but I don't want my smoke detectors going off when I roast a chicken.NOTE: I've split the second question I asked out into this question.When calculating the minimum size of a range hood, there are three things you should consider.In this case that same 30" cook top, would require 375 cfm ((30/12)*150 = 375).
Next we'll determine the minimum capacity based on British thermal units(BTU)/hour, by dividing the BTU/hour by 100.
For example, if we had a cooktop that produced 40,000 BTUs, we would need 400 cfm.
I would like to put in a fairly powerful range (nothing huge, though; I don't need six burners and a griddle), and will need a hood that can carry smoke, heat, steam, grease, etc. The trend seems to be huge hoods with, e.g., 1200 CFM, and a lot of people say you "don't need that", but then I do know that a lot of people don't actually COOK in their kitchen.
I'm not convinced that I have any need for 1200 CFM, but I'm also not convinced that something like 350 CFM will be sufficient.
Assume I'll have a 30" Wolf all-gas range (not sold on Wolf, but most of what I'm looking at is in that ballpark in terms of BTUs, so it's a good comparison), and be using two or three burners on the stove five or six nights a week, the oven three or four nights a week, and cooking things that may produce large volumes of steam and/or smoke and grease vapor (boiling/simmering large pots of water, stir fries, roasting meat, pan-searing steak) at least half of that.
I don't want all that going out into my house, and I certainly don't want it clogging up the filters/core of an HRV, so I need a hood that can exhaust it.